The 2014 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gains comes from two parcels on shallow 20-centimeter stony soil. It is tighter on the nose than the Puligny-Charmes when I tasted it from barrel and I suspect it will require longer bottle age. The palate is elegant on the entry, that leitmotif of bitter lemon coming through, good density with a brisk finish that will hopefully develop more persistency as it matures in bottle. There is elegance here, but it will need time to show. Alain Chavy told me that he picked his 2014s between and September 12-17, sheathing the secateurs on the Wednesday prior to the storm. He enjoyed a sun-drenched harvest, though with a steady breeze that helped concentrate the berries, so that they generally achieved 13 degrees alcohol sans chaptalization. "There was a bit of hail that affected Puligny Champ Gains and Folatières, also Saint Aubin En Remilly," he told me, "but we only lost 10% to 15% of the crop so it was not too bad." Alain racked all of his 2014s in August for bottling in February/March 2016, except for the Bourgogne Chardonnay that will be bottled at the end of October. "I find that the 2014s are riper than 2013," he continued, "but perhaps with less mineralité." Perhaps I would argue that at this early stage, I might have a preference for Alain's taut and linear 2013s over the 2014s that give pleasure, if not the same intellect as the previous vintage. Certainly, as is common in the Côte de Beaune, these are flattering wines that rea
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