The concept of terroir, that unique contribution of a given site, has become a much-discussed vinous topic these days, sometimes frivolously so, but it is the specific expression of terroir that very much informs each of Kistler's Chardonnays insofar as all are, in fact, subject to the same winemaking regimen and the differences among them are those born of where they were grown. This deeply draughted effort from the Hyde Vineyard gets our vote as being the best of an altogether extraordinary bunch in 2015 by dint of its intensity, its impeccable balance and its sheer fruity strength. It is a wine of remarkable richness and range that, while complete and compelling now, will only grow more complex over time, and we feel safe in predicting that those willing to hide a few bottles away until it reaches its tenth anniversary are sure to be pleased that they did.
The 2015 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard reveals tantalizing notions of fresh grapefruit, lemongrass, key lime pie and orange peel with nuances of croissant, blanched almonds and beeswax plus a hint of coriander seed. Medium to full-bodied, the palate explodes with citrusy freshness, complemented by a satiny texture and fantastic freshness, finishing long and chalky. (LPB)
This wine opens in muted aromatics that slowly blossom into a shaker of oystershell and saline, a salty and bold character of slate and stone that gives it texture and complexity. Green apple, quince and white flower mingle on the expansive ethereal palate within a medium-bodied balanced context of concentration. (VB)
The 2015 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard offers good immediacy and plenty of up-front appeal, if not quite the nuance, delineation or complexity of the most expressive wines here. Next to the other wines in this range, the Hyde offers plenty of fruit depth and richness, but I would have liked to see more Hyde character, especially given the pedigree of this site. Today, the Hyde is uncharacteristically timid. (AG)
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