The 2016 Criots Batard Montrachet Haut Densite Grand Cru was cropped at 45 hectoliters per hectare because of the late and short pruning that Lamy practiced on the vines. It has a wonderful bouquet with aniseed-tinged citrus fruit that just wraps itself around your senses. There is a labyrinthine-like quality to the nose, opening and shutting aromatic windows each time I returned to the glass. The palate is fresh and very confident on the entry, that aniseed theme continuing, great depth and sense of energy with a very long and spicy finish. This is one hell of a Criots in what was a challenging growing season(NM)
Lamy produced only one barrel of Criots-Bâtard this year, but what a barrel! A complex and compelling bouquet of orange blossom, tangerine, lemon oil, poached pear, cinnamon and a touch of oak vanillin precedes a full-bodied, multidimensional wine with fabulous energy despite its considerable amplitude, a bottomless core of fruit, and almost painful levels of extract and intensity. The stunningly flavourful finish builds and builds after the wine is long gone.Drinking Window 2023 - 2040.(WK)
Olivier Lamy’s 2016 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet is stellar. The superb nose delivers a pure and classy blend of white peach, apple, fresh almond, pastry cream, chalky soil tones and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and impeccably balanced, with a great core, fine focus and grip and a very, very long, complex and racy finish. This will need several years in the cellar to fully develop, but when it is ready, it will be a very pure, very refined and an utterly classic bottle of Criots-Bâtard. 2024-2060.
(no frost losses here; Lamy told me he harvested yellow grapes early as these vines ripened very quickly at the end, making 40 hectoliters per hectare; 12.5% potential alcohol chaptalized to 13.1%): Pale, bright yellow. Lovely lemony lift to the aromas of peach and flowers, with more exotic lichee and spice notes that reminded me of Gewurztraminer. The most exotic of these 2016s, with a plushness and almost oily thickness barely contained by harmonious acidity. The exotic lichee note carries through on the palate. This rather powerful, youthfully aggressive, slightly warm wine finishes seamless and very long but was a bit of a comedown in class following the Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité.(ST)
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