A new cuvée and an assemblage of reserve wines from 1988, 1996, 2006, 2008, 2009 and 2010 laid down in vats for three years, in bottle for another three, followed by a year's rest after disgorging. The freshness belies its age on the nose. This is still bursting with lemon citrus and peach stone fruits, pastry and gently spicy nuances. The palate has a mellow texture (lower pressure bottling at 4.5 atmospheres) and a seamless integration of glossy citrus and stone fruit flavors with biscuity, spicy and nutty complexity. Sweetness of time is all that's required as the dosage is a low 3g/l.
An elegant, mineral-driven version, with the delicate bead carrying subtle flavors of black currant, mandarin orange peel, smoke and ground ginger, well-meshed to the firm, focusing frame of acidity. Offers a lithe, lingering finish. (AN)
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