Bright, dark red-ruby. Medicinal blueberry and licorice aromas are lifted by a minty high note; less showy and more restrained on the nose than the Taillepieds and Caillerets today. Then wonderfully dense, primary and pure on the palate, but more vertical and less opulent than the Taillepieds and Caillerets. Strong mineral energy accentuates the impression of vibrancy. A bit less open to inspection today owing to its firm tannic spine. (ST)
A fresh yet notably ripe nose is composed by liqueur-like aromas of plum, spice and earth. The delicious, refined and once again strikingly pure flavors are a bit less muscular and mineral-driven than those of the Taillepieds yet the tannic spine shaping the lingering if ever-so-slightly warm finish is just as firm. This is going to require at least moderate patience before it begins to be approachable.
The Champans is excellent this year, opening in the glass with a complex bouquet of plums, cassis, rich soil, espresso and blood orange, framed by new oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, powerful and concentrated, with a layered and rich impression, its tannins cloaked in a deep core of succulent fruit. Drinking window 2026-2045. (WK)
The domaine’s holdings in Champans were one of the vineyards where only the lower twenty percent of the rows were frosted and Guillaume d’Angerville felt he was very lucky in this regard. The wine is very black fruity in personality this year, offering up scents of cassis, dark berries, venison, dark soil tones, coffee bean and cedary oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and ripely structured, with a rock solid core, fine focus and grip and a long, promising finish. This will need a good decade to start to blossom, but will be long-lived. 2027- 2075.
The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans has a much more introspective bouquet, broody at first and only reluctantly opening. There is plenty of black fruit here, but it is tightly coiled. The palate is more open and cannot disguise the plush blackberry and raspberry fruit. Perhaps compared to the Taillepieds it has less tension and nervosité? Conversely, while the nose is bashful, you end up appreciating the generosity on the finish but I wonder whether the Taillepieds will ultimately bestow the most intellect and terroir expression? (NM)
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