Opens with spice and black pepper aromas, followed by pure cherry, black currant, violet, graphite and mineral flavors. Sleek and focused, this builds to a long, ripe finish of fruit and stone notes. (BS)
The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, the famous monopole of the domaine that ostensibly forms Guillaume d’Angerville’s back garden, unequivocally possesses the most complex bouquet this year with mineral-drenched black fruit, briary, cinnamon, cold Alpine stream, strawberry pastilles and orange zest. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip on the entry. This is very pure and focused, a fine backbone here but there is enormous length as it fans out. There is something noble about this wine…or should I say, ducal? (NM)
Dark ruby. Complex but youthfully restrained aromas of cassis, blueberry, violet and licorice, with a spicy element that Guillaume d'Angerville attributes to the vineyard. Superconcentrated wine with compelling sweetness and energy. An impeccably balanced, potentially great Volnay. Guillaume d'Angerville believes that the vines' windy situation high up on the hillside protected them against the frost in April. (ST)
Interestingly, this seems to possess elements of all three of the preceding wines as the cool and ultra-elegant nose exhibits a broad range of spice and floral elements on the black cherry and plum-suffused aromas. There is almost painful intensity to the chiseled, focused and stony medium weight flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the youthfully austere, powerful and very serious finish. This is very clearly built to age and a wine that should really not be touched for at least a decade. In a word, terrific.
The 2016 Clos des Ducs displays a superb nose of raw cocoa, plum, wild red berries, black cherry and roast coffee, with savoury suggestions of the roast squab to come. On the palate the wine is supple, fine-grained and fullish, with lovely stony tension, bright fruit and concentration. This doesn’t have the power of the Champans, but its elegance and quiet depth win it the title of king of the cellar. (WK)
With eight of the casks here lagging with their malos, the wine is a bit behind the others in the cellars in terms of evolution, but its promise is very easy to appreciate. The bouquet is superb, offering up a fine constellation of black cherries, black plums, raw cocoa, complex soil tones, woodsmoke and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with ripe tannins, tangy acids and fine length and grip on the nascently complex finish. This will need time, but will be excellent.
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