The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut Saint-Jacques has a tightly wound bouquet that needed more encouragement than the Estournelles that I tasted directly before. But it is worthwhile waiting for this to unfurl, revealing subtle damp woodland and shucked oyster shell aromas neatly entwined with the cranberry and wild strawberry scents. The palate is very nuanced with a fine line of acidity, beautiful balance, great poise and charm, perhaps one of the domaine’s most effortless wines on the finish. Sophisticated. There are 11 barrels from the 1.2 hectares, so at least this is hopefully easier to obtain upon release. (NM)
Moderate wood frames cool, pure and restrained aromas of various dark berries, humus and a gamy whiff. The tautly muscular and impressively intense medium weight plus flavors also exude plenty of minerality on the seductive yet quite serious finish that leaves little doubt that this will need at least 10 years to arrive at its apogee.
After the more ethereal Estournelles St-Jacques, the Lavaux brings us down to earth with its more brooding bouquet of black cherry, blueberry, currant, rich soil and smoke. On the palate the wine displays more power and structural amplitude, with a firmer chassis of tannin and sapid, wild flavours. (WK)
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