While slight in body and alcohol, this delicate old-vine Riesling offers an accelerating build of concentration and texture. Lip-smacking apricot, tangerine and lemon flavors are pristine, augmented by a hint of residual sugar and bright acidity. The finish is dry with lean reverberating minerality. (ALI)
From 60- to 130-year-old vines in the Saarburger Rausch, the 2016 Saarburg Riesling Trocken 'Alte Reben' offers super ripe and concentrated fruit on the nose. Round, rich and elegant on the palate but just 11.5% alcohol, this is a beautifully complex and persistent dry Spätlese style. This is impressive, with refreshing minerality and beautiful fruit. Tasted March 2018. (SR)
'Our old vines trained to single posts were hardly affected by peronospora,' noted Zilliken, 'even though it was catastrophic in the wire-trained sections. It could be' he added, 'that the really old vines are simply more resilient. But the result is another of the anomalies of vintage 2016: that these gave us our highest yields.' Ashen and stony accents emerge on the nose, along with intimations of seed- and pit-inflected fresh apple and cherry, which then dominate on a buoyant, silken palate. Bittersweet iris perfume adds inner-mouth allure, leading into a brightly and lusciously fruited, vividly stone-lined, mouthwateringly salt-tinged finish. (DS)
Pure and focused, delivering flavors of yellow apple, nectarine and jasmine layered with rich spice and custard notes. The mineral-infused finish delivers fennel and lavender accents. Charming, harmonious and ready to drink, but with the ability to age. Drink now through 2026. (AZ)
Still a bit closed, but this is a seriously mineral wine with an astonishing depth for just 11.5%. However, the best thing about this wine are the myriad citrus curd, herbal and mineral nuances at the long super-clean finish. You could drink it now, but this has many years ahead of it if well kept.
Fresh green fruit with apple and pear takes centre stage, but is complemented by an intriguing waxy notion. Once again apple and a delightful juicy touch of grapefruit make the mouth water, supported by an authentic expression of the vintage’s acidity. At the same time a generous texture reflects high extract, smidgeons of crisp kernel and stony minerality adding some fascinating touches to the finish. 17/20 points. (MS)
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