(13.5% alcohol, which Jean-Nicolas Méo described as "almost low for the year"): Bright ruby-red. A fruit bomb on the nose, offering almost liqueur-like scents of black cherry and dark raspberry but with considerably more energy than the Perrières. Then less sweet on the palate than the nose would suggest, displaying seriously dense, plush dark fruit flavors supported by plush tannins. Finishes with terrific length and surprising energy. Méo noted that he picked this fruit early enough (September 24) to retain verve. These vines on the Ladoix-Serrigny side of the Corton hill avoided the frost in 2016. (ST)
A slightly riper and definitely spicier nose offers up notes of essence of plum, violet and freshly turned earth. The rich, full-bodied and solidly powerful imposingly-scaled flavors once again brim with dry extract as the old vines are very much in evidence, all wrapped in a strikingly persistent finish. This is a relatively rare Corton that is clearly built for the long-term yet the richness and sap are such that this should also be approachable after only 5-ish years or so.
Méo’s old vines in Corton-Rognet produce what is probably his most consistently underrated wine, and one which evolves beautifully in the cellar. Aromas of coniferous forest floor, plums and grilled meat precede a generous, ample wine with a fleshy core of fruit, a fine chassis of chalky tannins and superb energy through the long, lingering finish.Drinking Window 2027 - 2045. (WK)
There are six barrels of Clos Rognet this year in the Méo cellars, with one of the casks having been used previously. This was one of the first parcels picked by the harvesting team in 2016 and the wine has turned out beautifully, offering up lovely purity and precision on the nose of black plums, black cherries, venison, dark soil tones, chocolate, woodsmoke and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep. full-bodied and still quite primary, with a rock solid core, beautiful focus and balance, ripe, suave tannins and a very long, vibrant and promising finish. These old vines can sometimes produce very broad-shouldered and powerful wines, but this year, the power is tailored Savile Row style and the wine will be a very elegant rendition- once it has had a chance to blossom from behind its fine structural chassis. 2029-2075+.
The 2016 Corton Rognet Grand Cru was quite feisty and rich on the nose, perhaps missing the same composure as the Corton-Perrières: hints of date infusing the red cherry and kirsch aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet tannin, plump ripe red fruit with good volume, slightly less tension than I would like. This was apparently harvested a little earlier than others, although I might have even have got the vendangeurs out a day earlier? This is one cru where I harbor much fonder memories of the 2015. (NM)
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