The 2016 les Clos from Vincent Dauvissat is another stellar wine in the making, with the low yields of the vintage here manifesting in a more powerful and bracingly youthful grand cru. The bouquet is a classic mix of lemon, pear, citrus peel, flinty minerality, fruit blossoms and a touch of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with racy acids, a huge spine of minerality and a very, very long, snappy and still quite primary finish. Of the two Dauvissat grand crus in 2016, the les Preuses will provide more enjoyment early, despite the fact that both wines deserve to be forgotten in the cellar for at least the next five years! For those who put a bit more premium on power in their grand cru Chablis, the plus sign can be appended here, but my heart has to give the slight nod to the more ethereal and potential elegant les Preuses here in this marvelous vintage! 2022-2060.
Pale yellow. High-pitched aromas of grapefruit zest, ginger and quinine; much spicier than the Preuses in the early going. Silky on entry, then fine-grained and firm in the middle, a bit more austere than the Preuses and not showing quite as much early personality. Strong element of crushed stone and saline minerality. This racy grand cru finishes with terrific pungent lemon zest and mineral flavors and outstanding length. A wine of great finesse and purity: here the strong mineral component stands in nicely for the low acidity. This and the Preuses are quite splendid in the context of the vintage. (ST)
From bottle, the 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is more immediately expressive than the Preuses, revealing aromas of honeyed lemons, preserved citrus and quince. On the palate, it's fuller-bodied, deep and ample, even rich, with a layered core, succulent acids and almost chewy levels of extract, concluding with a long finish. It's a very serious Les Clos that could well be the wine of the vintage. (WK)
A much more floral nose invokes ample citrus, petrol and white peach aromas that are liberally laced with an abundance of classic Chablis elements along with hints of clove and anise. As is almost always the case, the big-bodied flavors are more obviously powerful and punchy than those of the Preuses while culminating in a driving, explosive and mineral-driven finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth. Still, this is most impressive though note that it is also very clearly built-to-age and will need at least some.
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