The 2004 Riesling Sommerberg D Vendange Tardive smells of peaches and apricots, butter cream and vanilla. Overtly creamy, silken, and rich on the palate, but possessed as well of a distinctive sense of underlying stony mineral density, it scarcely betrays its 60 grams of residual sugar. Peach, apricot kernel, nut oils, and vanilla, salt and stone linger with amazing persistence. This is easily a candidate for a dozen or more years in the cellar. But as it has nowhere near the delicacy, brightness, or lift of the 2005 Riesling Sommerberg D Vendage Tardive, I would wait several years before even re-visiting it. (DS)
(from old vines; previously labeled as "D"-or, more accurately, the code of L31D appeared in small print on the label) Pale yellow-gold. Subdued but pure aromas of apricot, orange marmalade and tropical fruits. Sweet fruit shows an almost candied character, but the wine's fat is given shape by surprisingly strong acidity and firm underlying minerality, and the impression is less sweet than its 60 g/l r.s. would suggest. Wonderfully silky, superconcentrated riesling with brisk flavors of crystallized, superripe stone and soft citrus fruits. This really walks a tightrope between sweetness and brisk acidity. (ST)
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