Alain Chavy’s cellar is unusually deep for Puligny, 18 feet underground, providing a cold delay to the start of malolactic fermentation, lengthening the slow evolution of this wine in 228-liter barrels and 400-liter puncheons. Chavy inoculates his fermentations, and lets the wine rest with little lees stirring, creating a Puligny with clarity and energy. Not to mention the most glorious, floral buzz. That scent only gets more inviting and seductive as the wine opens over the course of several days, its flinty reduction turned away from the shadows toward the sun. It’s worth the price of admission just to smell this wine, and it should reward long cellaring.
Lime blossom, peach, citronella and spice aromas and flavors mark this focused white. Taut and balanced, picking up a mineral element as this unfolds on the long aftertaste. Not showy, yet complex and elegant. Best from 2020 through 2028. (BS)
The 2015 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Folatieres has the most complex bouquet of Alain Chavy's premier crus with wonderful cold slate and light fumé notes emerging from the glass, perhaps more on the austere side at the moment, yet it gains intensity on the glass. The palate is well balanced with more fruité than the other premier crus, touches of white peach, pear and citrus peel emerging with time. It feels harmonious and persistent in the mouth, completing what feels like a classy Puligny that should give pleasure over the next decade. Bon vin! (NM)
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