The 2016 Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Kabinett shows an open, smoky, herbal-laced bouquet of ripe Riesling. Lush, piquant and terribly stimulating on the vital and crystalline palate, this is a gorgeous Kabinett bottled with 8% alcohol and lots of tension, grip and salty minerals that carry the wine into a long, dangerously stimulating finish. This is just beautiful and lovely to drink even today and surely over the next 20 to 25+ years. Tasted April 2018. (SR)
“We didn’t have to pick for this until mid-October,” noted Adam, “yet in aggregate the must weight was only 78 Oechsle.” The results are highly expressive aromatically and amply ripe, while projecting the levity, animation and pushback of acidity against sweetness that distinguish the Kabinett genre, not to mention the sheer irresistible drinkability. Lime, peach and Persian melons present a lusciously sherbet-like palate impression, at once subtly creamy and brightly juicy, soothing yet invigorating. Stony and smoky accents add intrigue to a buoyant, superbly sustained finish. Not only were the grapes for this delectably delicate Kabinett much lower in must weight than those that informed the corresponding Häs’chen and Goldtröpfchen, they were also higher in acidity; yet, of the three, this is, paradoxically, the wine with the most flattering creaminess of texture and – presumably thanks to longer hang time – the ripest in flavor. (DS)
How could a summer wine be better than this? Ravishing nose of peach, honeysuckle and wet earth is followed by a cornucopia of ripe summer fruits (everything from apple and peach through melon to the berries). Then the acidity kicks in at the finish and bowls you away. Don't resist now unless you've got a good cellar where this could grow for 5-plus years.
Refreshing and well-knit, with hints of vanilla spice to the dried apricot and ripe citrus flavors. Mineral accents emerge on the silky and richly spiced finish. Excellent length. Drink now through 2028. (AZ)
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