The 2016 Clos des Mouches rouge was one of the few wines in the cellars this year to include ten percent whole clusters. The wine was a touch reduced at the time of my visit, but with a little coaxing in the glass, its quality became very easy to read. The nose eventually offers up a lovely and nicely black fruity blend of sweet dark berries, black cherries, fresh thyme, a superb signature of soil, gamebird, espresso and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and very refined in profile, with a sappy core of black fruit, lovely transparency, suave tannins and great length and grip on the nascently complex finish. This wine reminds me aromatically and in terms of flavors very much of the superb 1993 Clos des Mouches, but the structural elements here are more refined and the wine will be more elegant when it is fully mature. Needless to say, that is a very good combination! (Drink between 2026-2075)
In contrast to the nose of the Grèves the reduction is not subtle and I would strongly recommend decanting this if you're tempted to crack a bottle young. Otherwise there is gorgeous detail to the finer tension-filled and ultra-pure flavors that finish with a touch of austerity. I like the balance and transparency and while this is not quite as concentrated, it's more elegant. Note that my rating offers the benefit of the doubt that the firm reduction exhibited by the nose is not permanent.
Aromas of red and black fruit, game bird, raw cocoa and orange rind precede a supple, medium-full palate with a sapid core of fruit, bright acids, and a chassis of fine, velvety tannins. 2016’s Clos des Mouches is shaping up to be an elegant middleweight. Drinking Window 2020 - 2030. (WK)
(average production in this large holding was 28 hectoliters per hectare, with potential alcohol ranging from 12.8% to 13.2% in the various lots; vinified with 25% whole clusters): Healthy medium red. Deep nose displays red and darker berries accented by spices, minerals and flowers; ultimately a bit blacker in character than the Grèves. Also more airy in the mouth, with a very fine-grained texture and harmonious acidity that makes the Grèves seem almost heavy by comparison. Lovely subtle inner-mouth perfume here. Finishes with nicely delineated fruit and spice notes, lively tannins and saliva-inducing minerality. (ST)
The 2016 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches offers broody red fruit laced with melted tar on the nose, sultry after the Grèves but with a pleasant oyster shell scent. The palate is medium-bodied with chunky ripe tannin. What it might lack in finesse, it makes up for in sheer substance and charm. Maybe I was just expecting a little more joie-de-vivre and complexity. Drink over the next 5-8 years. (NM)
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