Ryan Deovlet’s appellation wine just keeps getting better. He blends it from vineyards in Santa Maria and the Santa Rita Hills, aging it on the fine lees in French oak barrels (30 percent new), and manages to integrate the oak so it’s merely a platform for the wine’s zesty, sandy freshness. The immediate impression is brisk, coastal cool, then the fruit begins to develop from green melon toward tangerine and bright tangelo. Three days later, there’s not a touch of oxidation on the wine: It’s still lovely, saline and as brisk as ocean air.
The 2016 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County) is a terrific appellation level wine from Ryan Deovlet. Bright and delineated, with plenty of citrus character, the 2016 offers lovely persistence and class, especially at this level. The 2016 is a blend of 55% Sanford & Benedict and 45% Zotovich fruit. (AG)
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