The 2016 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was assessed from a blend of all the component parts (except the young vines) that I previously tasted separately, as I have done over the last decade. The final blend will be 80% new oak, whereas my sample contained 100%, although this was discrete and enmeshed with the fruit. It has a fascinating bouquet, much more nuanced than those from a decade ago, dark fruit, a little earthier, with the stem addition lending it more freshness and even, dare I say, slightly green—and I mean that in a very positive sense. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, a core of slightly candied black cherry and blackcurrant fruit framed by quite “strict” tannin and a fresh, marine-influenced, brine-tinged finish that lingers long in the mouth. There is a sense of harmony and completeness here that, even over 20 years tasting at this address, I have rarely encountered. You can just feel the frisson in this wine. One of the finest wines from the Côte d'Or in 2016. It's that simple. (NM)
(an approximation of the final blend): Bright, deep red. Very pure but reserved aromas of raspberry, crushed rock, rose petal, spices, mocha and tobacco, lifted by a calcaire pungency. Compellingly silky and seamless but with terrific energy and subtle intensity to its dense flavors of red berries, dark cherry, spices and powdered stone, complicated by a saline quality. This wonderfully complex, perfumed, penetrating wine is distinctly red in character for a Burgundy with 13.5% alcohol. Finishes suave, complete and classically dry, with outstanding slow-building length and great class. Winemaker Jacques Devauges describes this wine as "at the level of 2015 but for different reasons." (ST)
The Clos de Tart 2016 is really quite special, and after the technically perfect but soulless wines of the Pitiot-era, it is refreshing to taste a wine at this address that pulls at the heartstrings as well as the head. Aromas of peony, plum, red cherry, roast espresso and incipient gamebird precede a full-bodied, ineffably complete wine with superb depth and dimension, velvety tannins and a deep core of fruit. Concentrated but elegant, this has attained a superb balance. Jacques Devauges has clearly hit the ground running at this storied address. Drinking Window 2027-2045. (WK)
A wonderfully fresh, bright and layered nose reflects notes of cool red and black cherry, plum, violet, lavender, earth and a subtle, but not invisible, touch of wood. There is notably more volume and mid-palate concentration to the relatively supple medium weight plus flavors that tighten up noticeably on the dusty, balanced and exquisitely persistent finish where a hint of bitter cherry pit surfaces. Like the La Forge this is certainly well structured yet it's not so youthfully backward to prevent this from being enjoyed on the younger side.
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