By: David Othenin-Girard
K&L Staff Member
This awesome cask of Tobermory seems to have gotten lost in the sea of exceptional single casks we've just acquired. The new owners of this odd little distillery on the gorgeous Isle of Mull have recently closed the distillery for renovations and won't likely open until sometime in 2020. That means the already expensive whisky could become even more rare. The thing about Tobermory is that it can be a bit inconsistent. When it's good, it's an absolute dream. At its worst it's overly feinty with tons of funky mashy fermenty flavors. We were unsure if this whisky aged in a refill sherry butt could possibly be from the right side of Tobermory at this ridiculous price, but we needed to risk it considering the potential opportunity. Turns out this is one of the best Tobermory I've ever tasted. Much cleaner than we usually see, perhaps thanks to decades in this old butt and retaining its distinct "Islands" quality that I see in all the best Tobermory. When the porridge flavors aren't there, this stuff can be truly exceptional. The nose starts a bit closed with hints of roasted nuts and sweet malt. On the palate, there's the tiniest hint of sweet spent mash, but it's restrained and has none of the lactic quality that makes some of these feel "off”. But when you add water the whole thing explodes into a symphony of salted nuts, roasted stone fruit, vibrant fresh forest and freshly cut grass. On the palate the malt takes a back seat now with a basket of nuts and dried apricots delivered right to your olfactory gates. This might be the best Tobermory I've ever had and considering the special distillery release 21 Year is $240, it's worth the risk for even the most jaded hater of Mulls historic distiller.