A star is born! Stunning white-peach and herbal nose, then a sensational combination of ripeness and freshness that whips this forward like a jockey driving a racehorse towards the winning post. From organically grown grapes. Fair'n Green certification. This has enormous aging potential. Drink or hold. (NS)
The first example of GG from the Höllenpfad was made from a parcel of forty year-old vines in the filet section of the vineyard known as Mühlenberg and comes in with a similar alcohol and residual sugar level to the Krötenpfuhl. This too is a lovely example, offering up a fine bouquet of pink grapefruit, tart orange, a bit of briny ocean breeze, citrus peel, lemongrass and wild yeasts. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and a bit more reserved structurally than the Krötenpfuhl, with a fine core, ripe acids and excellent length and grip on the nascently complex finish. 2023-2060.
Given what I wrote about the forceful grip and pronounced phenolics of this year’s “regular” dry Höllenpfad, I confess to having approached this Grosses Gewächs with slight trepidation. But, there is in fact greater primary juiciness, clarity, focus as well as textural allure. Smoky black tea accents pip-inflected pear and zesty lemon in a nose and palate of impressive intensity – yet combined with an alluring silkiness of feel and an abundance of primary juiciness. A crunchy, earthy suggestion of turnip lends further interest. Generous juiciness and citric brightness serve to balance-out the palpable, incisive and sizzling impingement of fresh ginger, radish and white pepper that serve for finishing vibrancy and grip. (DS)
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