This is exhilarating wine: It starts out smelling heady and ripe, then does a one-eighty, delivering pure, stony flavor. All the fruit - the notes of pear, marzipan and citrus oil - feels as though it’s there simply to flesh out the wine’s intense structure. The main event is stones and surging acidity - it’s salty and firm, and keeps giving freshness. Evanthia Mitropoulou farms her vines organically and vinifies this wine without any inputs. (TT)
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