The 2017 Fleurie from Yvon Métras is a real success, wafting from the glass with notes of black raspberries, plums, dried rose petal, dark chocolate and sweet spices. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, velvety and succulent, with a rich but juicy core of fruit, fine-grained structuring tannins that bear the stamp of mature stems and a long, sapid finish. More classic than the extremely ripe and concentrated 2015 or the fragile 2016, the 2017's sun-kissed fruit but classical balance mean that it's somewhat reminiscent of the 2011 rendition. Bottled without added sulfites, every bottle I've consumed from my cellar in France has been terrific, but readers should pay special attention to transportation and storage conditions to ensure they enjoy the wine at its best. Drink through 2027. (WK)
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