The 2017 Blanchots from Patrick Piuze is far more closed down on the palate than any of the grand crus to precede it in this lineup, but it does offer a quite expressive nose out of the blocks of tangerine, apple, chalky soil tones, a touch of grapefruit and a topnote of orange peel. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with a reserved personality, fine cut and grip and a long, primary and perhaps very, very promising finish. This is going to certainly be very good when it blossoms, but I do not get the sense that it will be able to quite catch the excellent quality of the Côte de Bouqueyreaux this year. 2025-2065.
The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots is quite exotic and gourmand, wafting from the glass with notes of orange blossom, peaches and honeycomb. On the palate, it's full-bodied, rich and textural, with lovely salinity and succulent acids. Cheerful, candid and industrious, Quebecois Patrick Piuze celebrates the tenth anniversary of his négociant operation this year, and there's no denying that his presence has enriched the region. At this address, hand-harvested grapes are pressed firmly, their juice fermented in used barrels and stainless steel, with sur lie élevage of comparatively short duration, since Piuze wished to capture the maximum of freshness and energy. The resulting wines are elegantly textural but incisive, clearly differentiated by site. This is also the best address to explore the Chablis AOC, as Piuze produces a number of cuvées and lieu-dit bottlings designed to highlight the diversity that this large appellation encompasses. 2017s at this address are an unmitigated success, classic in profile, with charming fruit but tangy balancing acids. Readers interested to get a sense of how Piuze's wines evolve should look out for my forthcoming ten year retrospective tastings that I conducted a few days after reviewing these 2017s. (WK)
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