Orange and orange blossom, mint and elder flower waft fragrantly from the glass. This beauty comes to the palate with infectious juiciness of orange and lime, heady inner-mouth perfume, and a seductively silken feel. Undertones of raw almond and wet stone add further interest to an impeccably poised, consummately refreshing, exuberantly persistent finish. In its levity and animating energy, this precisely captures Kabinett virtues. Its mere hint of sweetness is ideally supportive and conducive to culinary versatility. Not a bit more residual sugar is needed. No wonder Molitor has been eager to make major inroads into the Bockstein. I’m beginning to better understand why this Saar site – or, at least, its best portions – were traditionally second in reputation only to the Scharzhofberg. (I returned to this wine repeatedly, thinking that I must have overrated it – but no.) (DS)
Very crisp and bright with pronounced gooseberries for the vintage. There is also a whiplash finish that should wake up whoever that has drifted off at the dinner table! Drink or hold.
The 2016 Riesling Ockfener Bockstein Kabinett (Green Capsule) is clear, pure and piquant, showing bright, ripe and concentrated fruit. Salty, fresh and piquant on the palate, with lovely fruit and crystalline structure, this is a dangerously stimulating Kabinett bottled with 9% alcohol. This is an excellent Kabinett Riesling from one of the Saar's finest grand crus. (SR)
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