The superb 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru exhibits a youthfully reserved bouquet of lemon oil, white flowers, smoky reduction and wet stones. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and phenolic, with chewy extract and almost tannic structure, that is more in keeping with a red wine, rather than a white. Long, focused and incisive, it's a mineral expression of Corton-Charlemagne that's built for the cellar. (WK)
Pale, bright yellow. Pristine but reticent aromas of yellow peach, smoky silex and spices; "this wine is never in a fruity style," says Boillot. At once saline in an oyster shell way and sweet in the mouth, but buffered by rocky minerality. This powerful, bracing wine is certainly not about fruit. Finishing with an element of tannic structure that reminded me of a red wine, this wine is hard to assess today but already shows outstanding saline length. Boillot picked this fruit on September 1, at the end of his harvest. (ST)
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