Pale yellow. Wonderfully delicate and discreet on the nose, hinting at lemon drop and minerals; Boillot says he's normally the first to harvest in Montrachet and this wine certainly conveys an early-picked aspect. Pure and silky on the palate and thicker than the Chevalier-Montrachet, but with terrific inner-mouth cut. Displays impeccable balance on the very suave, slowly rising finish. Can a wine be both understated and explosive? "Two thousand seventeen is a real fruit year," says Boillot, and in fact this citrussy, floral Montrachet is not yet showing the site's iodiney minerality. But that will come. (ST)
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