Bottled at the end of June and brought up in new barrels, the blockbuster 2017 Condrieu La Doriane is up there with the crème de la crème, and just might be the wine of the vintage in the region. Stunning notes of buttered peach, crème brûlée, white flowers, and honeysuckle all literally soar from the glass. Deep, rich, medium to full-bodied and powerful, like the base cuvée, it stays incredibly pure and elegant.
The concentration of fruit in this wine is always staggering. Such impressive depth and power. Deeply ripe, rich, apricot and peach aromas with a citrus, grapefruit edge and plenty of hazelnut oak. The palate is densely flavored, super-long and packed with ripe mangoes, apricots and peaches. Immaculate.
Slightly more forward and flamboyant than the more classically structured 2016, the 2017 Condrieu la Doriane is full-bodied, plush and opulent, loaded with flowers, melons and apricots. Yes, the oak is noticeable, but it adds a relatively restrained note of toasted almonds, serving to focus and lift the waves of succulent fruit. I'd drink this silky-textured beauty over the next few years, while it's still as showy as can be. (JC)
Intense, with a honeyed edge, this maintains drive throughout, featuring intense apricot, nectarine and peach fruit flavors, lined with mouthwatering bitter orange and anise notes. The long, unctuous finish has serious cut to match. While the famed E. Guigal house is synonymous with Syrah, its commitment to white wines is equally notable. Guigal represents half the production in the Condrieu appellation and its La Doriane bottling is a glorious throwback to the opulent and lush style that many other producers have moved away from in recent years. But that doesn’t mean it doesn’t pair well with food: Try it with langoustine or lobster, as well as asparagus with a citrus sabayon. (JM)
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