Jerry Seps grows fragrant zin on the steep, east-facing hillsides of his vineyard north of Calistoga. This vintage is full and soft in its tannins while the fruit lasts, with flavors of crunchy cherries and gentle notes of raspberry fruit leather. The structure and length seem to emanate from the wine’s freshness rather than from its extract. Cellar it until you find yourself grilling lamb chops, then give it some time in a decanter to open up.
Taking a step back from the blustery ripeness that marks many Zinfandels, this vigorous youngster keys on vibrant, incisively berry-like fruit, and, while a fairly full-bodied wine, is one that tempers its obvious richness with an inviting sense of brightness. As is the norm with its maker, it is a particularly well-structured Zin that never casts so much as a glancing look in the direction of excess, but neither is it at all sparing in the signature fruit for which the variety is known, and it promises to show increasing layering and refinement if permitted to rest for as few as three or four years and as many as ten. *One Star*
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