Most people who drink wine know what a ripe peach tastes like. However, this wine gives you a completely new appreciation of the meaning of the word 'peach'. Beyond that, it possesses subtlety that is extremely rare anywhere in the world of food and wine. From organically grown grapes. Fair'n Green certification. Absolutely delicious now, but could be held for decades. (NS)
Lily perfume on the nose of this Hermannshöhle reminds me both of the corresponding 2016 and of this year’s Kirschheck. That is accompanied by ripe, fresh and high-toned, distillate-like notes of pear and quince. The glossy palate is lusciously fruited, billowingly perfumed, as well as seductively glossy and creamy in texture. Piquancy of pear pip and hints of anise add counterpoint, while fresh grapefruit and white peach contribute welcomed bright juiciness en route to a ravishingly-sustained, impeccably-balanced finish. The covering term 'mineral' will for now have to serve the strikingly transparent finish, which becomes more intriguing the longer the wine takes on air. (DS)
The 2017 Hermannshöhle Spätlese from the Dönnhoffs is also excellent this year, but it was a bit more reserved in personality at the time of my tasting and perhaps does not have quite the same precision as the Brücke this year? The bouquet offers up a superb, youthful mix of apple, a touch of blood orange, salty minerality, bee pollen and a nice touch of wild yeasts up high. On the palate the wine is focused, medium-full and racy, with a fine core, excellent focus and grip and a long, youthful and still quite primary finish. Perhaps this has just started to close down a bit from its recent bottling and will end up every bit as fine as the Brücke Spätlese in the fullness of time, but right now, I have to give a very slight edge to the above wine. That said, this is hardly disappointing, as it has enormous potential! 2022-2060.
Fabulous, with yellow apple, durian, honeysuckle and orange marmalade flavors packed into the core. Distinct acidity pierces through, making this very precise and finely executed. Licorice notes linger on the long, richly spiced finish. (AZ)
2017 was not a vintage of opulence for the Hermannshöhle, but exhilarating freshness, filigree fruit and almost razor-sharp acidity. A wonderful spritz of zesty orange on the finish reaches the part of the palate other Spätlesen can’t get to. 17.5/20 points (MS)
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