Céline Fontaine’s parcel of vines in Morgeot are in the extreme southern end of the vineyard, situated between the superb climat of la Cardeuse and the Santenay border. Her 2017 bottling is the first premier cru in the cellar here that really will demand a bit of bottle age before it starts to drink with generosity, which I take as a good sign for its future development. The nose delivers a promising mix of apple, lemon, a touch of orange, lovely minerality, vanillin oak and a delicately floral topnote redolent of white flowers. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and nicely mineral in personality, with snappy acids, lovely cut and grip and a long, focused and nicely reserved finish. Fine potential. 2020-2045+.
(the estate's holding is in Les Brussonnes, on the Santenay side of this appellation): Healthy pale yellow. Musky, smoky scents of yellow peach and gunflint. At once seamless and energetic, showing lovely spicy lift to its intense flavors of stone fruits and white flowers. The wine's silky texture is nicely leavened by lemony cut. Finishes tactile and firm, with very good verve and lift. A very graceful Morgeot in the making. (ST)
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