This is a terrific example of Riesling relishing what I like to call 'hidden sweetness.' The legally halbtrocken level of residual sugar present here not only beautifully supports the flavors of bright, luscious key lime, grapefruit and white peach, but also seems to set off the wine’s mouthwatering sense of salinity (a cleaner and more purely mineral salinity than that expressed in the corresponding legally trocken generic). Sage and basil lend pungent and cooling notes. A silken feel is in itself alluring while also offering a lovely contrast with the wine’s overall brightness and animatingly tingling acidity, and the lingering finish milks the salivary glands. If you play around with this wine at table, you’ll discover the full significance of 'hidden sweetness,' as it insinuates itself into culinary contexts where legally dry Rieslings fear to tread. (DS)
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