The 2016 Corton Grand Cru, which comes from Les Combes, had a sultry bouquet of mulberry and blackberry, nicely defined but introspective at the moment. The palate is smooth and harmonious, sweet and ripe with a grainy texture and notes of blood orange complementing the red fruit toward the structured and persistence finish. This is very classy, voluminous and with very satisfying purity from start to finish. A splendid Corton from l'equipe Tollot-Beaut. “The domaine lost two-thirds of the crop,” Nathalie Tollot rued when I visited her domaine in Chorey-lès-Beaune, “especially in Savigny-lès-Beaune. We started the harvest around 22 September. We had to sell many barrels back to the cooperage after the frost, but we decided to put part of the Bourgogne Rouge in tank for 2017, as we did not want to increase the proportion in that year.” This was a shorter tasting since the domaine had no choice but to blend some crus in Savigny-lès-Beaune and Beaune together, to great success in my opinion—particularly the former, which one could argue ended up being more than a sum of its parts. Some Burgundy-lovers get a bit sniffy about Tollot-Beaut because their style is unapologetically fruit-forward, occasionally opulent wines that are designed to give pleasure. However, that overlooks the craftsmanship, not to mention there is nothing wrong and everything right about sheer deliciousness. (Case in point, a 2014 Chorey-lès-Beaune that was an absolute treat at La Lune restaurant during
(entirely from the climat Les Combes, which is close to the estate's holding in the premier cru Les Vercots): Good dark red. Expressive if slightly medicinal black cherry and licorice scents are accented by high-pitched notes of black pepper and herbs. Distinctly tighter than the estate's premier crus, showing a sexy restrained sweetness and noteworthy energy to its griotte cherry and violet flavors. More black than red in character, this savory, fresh, firmly structured wine finishes with fine-grained tannins and lovely floral length. Showing the classic side of 2016. (ST)
Copious amounts of wood and menthol elements fight somewhat with the otherwise ultra-fresh red berry fruit aromas that are liberally laced with earth. The agreeably textured yet muscular and powerful big-bodied flavors possess fine depth on the equally firm, serious and youthfully austere finish where the wood resurfaces. This is currently somewhat awkward and will need a few years to harmonize as well as more completely absorb the oak treatment.
The Corton is a success in 2016, opening in the glass with notes of dark wild berries, coniferous forest floor, espresso and spice. On the palate the wine is cool and stony, with firm, tensile tannins and impressive reserves of freshness and energy. Drinking Window 2026 - 2045. (WK)
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