Not old by the standards of this domaine's other vineyard holdings -- it was planted in 1980 -- this 0.5ha piece of Les Petits Vougeots always seems to produce a delightfully scented, hedonistic Pinot in the hands of Charles van Canneyt. It's crunchy, juicy and vibrant, with chalky minerality and enticing raspberry and red cherry fruit. Drinking Window 2023 - 2029. (TA)
The 2017 Petits Vougeots was also one of the last wines to finish up its malo, but had recovered completely on the nose and was really showing lovely aromatic precision. However, on the palate, there was still a touch of CO2 on the backend, so I have scored the wine within a range. The bouquet is utterly charming, wafting from the glass in a blend of red and black cherries, raw cocoa, chalky soil tones, gamebird and a touch of vanillin oak. On the palate, despite the bit of remaining gas from the malo, the wine is full-bodied, pure and very long, with tangy acids, fine focus and grip and a long, complex and very promising finish. This should ultimately place at the upper limit of the range. 2024-2065+.
The 2017 Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeot offers up notes of plums, ripe berries, dark chocolate and rose petal, displaying darker fruit tones than is typical of this frequently red-fruited and ethereal cuvée. Perhaps it was just the day I tasted it. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, nicely concentrated and fine-boned, with succulent acids and a precise, mineral finish. A Chambolle in spirit, it's a perennial value in the Hudelot-Noëllat portfolio. This is a successful vintage for Charles Van Canneyt at Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat. The wines are supple and charming, gaining in-depth, seriousness and complexity as one ascends the hierarchy of appellations and vine age. After the concentrated and compelling 2015s and 2016s, both vintages built for the cellar despite their decidedly different styles, 2017 represents a high quality but more immediate, structurally open-knit year for the Domaine, and for impatient consumers, that is no bad thing. The domaine's roster of appellations will be familiar to readers by now, with the exception of a promising new Meursault from the lieu-dit Clos des Ecoles—a parcel formerly farmed by the Domaine Coche-Dury. (WK)
(from a .52 ha parcel). An ultra-elegant if markedly restrained nose offers up pretty aromas of violet, plum, dark currant and a lovely array of spice elements. The sleek, intense and beautifully well-detailed flavors evidence ample minerality on the balanced and refreshing finish. This understated effort is an exercise in lace and grace. 2027+
The 2017 Vougeot Les Petits Vougeot 1er Cru has a taut, tightly wound bouquet of black cherry, bilberry and subtle violet aromas that gradually open with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a chunky, quite masculine entry and fine grip, but a little backward and tight on the finish. Like a couple of other crus, I would just like a little more persistence here. (NM)
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