The focus at this predominantly organic domaine is increasingly on older wood and larger foudres rather than new oak. This is subtle, juicy and aromatic, with nectarine and grapefruit flavours and a leesy mid-palate. (TA)
The color is already somewhat golden though the honeysuckle and white peach-suffused nose remains quite fresh if somewhat exotic and without much in the way of obvious Chablis character. The seductive and ultra-rich flavors coat the mouth with sap though despite the concentration there is still reasonably good verve to the slightly warm finale. This overtly lush effort is certainly delicious but it's not what I personally search for in fine Chablis.
The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent is one of the highlights of the Brocard range, unfurling in the glass with aromas of honeyed peaches and yellow orchard fruit. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, textural and glossy, with an attractive sense of completeness and a saline finish. It's already drinking well. With substantial holdings of some 140 hectares, many of them cultivated organically, Jean-Marc Brocard's Préhy-based estate is one of Chablis's largest producers. It's an estate in motion, with increasingly environmentally responsible viticulture and Stockinger foudres complemented by stainless steel and barrels in the cellar. As is generally the case, the 2017 vintage marks a step up over 2016, and I look forward to revisiting these wines once they've completed their élevage to gain a more definite sense of where Brocard's wines are today and where they are headed. (WK)
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