Château des Jacques’ straight 2014 Morgon bottling is simply outstanding and really makes me look forward to tasting the single vineyard botltings from this vintage! The bouquet is deep, pure and nicely transparent, wafting from the glass in a complex blend of cherries, sweet cranberries, vinesmoke, a touch of fresh herbs, granitic minerality and just a whisper of cedar. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and very soil-driven, with a lovely core, impeccable focus and balance, just a bit of backend tannin and lovely purity on the long, youthful and tangy finish. This is approachable out of the blocks, but will be even better with a few years’ worth of bottle age to allow its secondary layers to emerge. (Drink between 2018-2045)
Like its 'bigger brother' the Côte du Py, there is a hint of herbal tea on the fresh and not as densely fruited nose that is composed mostly of pepper and various red berry aromas. The lighter weight flavors are not nearly as dense and powerful either and while there is a relatively firm backbone of supporting tannins, along with a hint of warmth, there is no backend bitterness. With that said, this lacks the same depth and it should be approachable after only a few years of bottle age.
Aromas of cherries, concrete and lemon rind. Medium-bodied, firm and bright. Acidity makes it a little lean but attractive nonetheless. Drink now.
The 2014 Morgon comes straight out of the blocks with quite precocious strawberry and blueberry scents, perhaps a little warmth here but it does not detract from its delineation. The palate has a sense of purity from first sip, joyful jammy red cherries intermixed with crushed strawberry and vanilla. It is not the most complex Morgon in this vintage but it offers an accessibility that many will enjoy. Drink this over the next 5-7 years. There have recently been changes at the helm at Château des Jacques, with winemaker Cyril Chirouze being appointed in June 2015. He previously worked at Domaine Piron before making the wine at Château des Jacques between 2007 and 2013, then Château de Marsannay in the Côte d'Or between 2013 and 2015. The 2014s that I tasted from Château des Jacques were therefore made by their former winemaker and to be honest, they were a little hit and miss. At times I found them pinched with a nagging metallic veneer that dissuaded you from drinking more than a glass. Other times what you had was a perfectly decent, modern-style Beaujolais, since they employ a more Burgundian style of vinification with use of oak barrels. It will be interesting to see how Chirouze takes Château des Jacques forward, especially now with Château du Moulin-à-Vent in the ascendent but perhaps pursuing a more traditional Beaujolais approach with carbonic maceration. (NM)
A juicy and light-bodied red, with woodsy spice notes underpinning the strawberry, wild raspberry and dried lavender aromas. Light tannins frame the graphite-tinged finish. Drink now through 2019. (GS)
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