This is young-vine malvasia grown in coastal sands on the westernmost point of the Iberian peninsula, where the region’s vineyards, once renowned for long-lived wines, have mostly been replaced by beach homes. This was fermented in stainless steel, left for four months on the lees, then racked before aging in tank for three years. It’s since grown into a plump, toasty white with scents of iodine and kelp. There’s a spiciness that lasts; Assistant Editor Deanna Gonnella, who has a soft spot for Colares, placed this one with “a big bowl of little clams and toasted bread to dip in it.”
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