(vinified with 70% whole clusters, the highest of the range, but Liger-Belair removed the main trunk of the stems by hand; aging in 50% new oak): Bright ruby-red. A bit deeper-pitched and less showy on the nose than the Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas, with aromas of plum, black cherry, cassis and licorice sweetened by the oak element. Mouthfilling, supple, sweet wine with savory soil tones and a solid mineral underpinning but on the soft, plump side for grand cru. Finishes with firm but sweet tannins and sneaky length. These vines are planted on a north-south axis, and Liger-Belair began noting "Aux Charmes" on the label with the 2014 bottling. (ST)
A deft touch of wood sets off the earthy and mildly sauvage-inflected aromas that consist mainly of plum liqueur though like the Aux Réas there is a hint of volatile acidity lurking in the background. The velvety and generously proportioned middle-weight flavors retain reasonable detail on the delicious if not especially dense flavors that firm up on the lingering finish. The VA is sufficiently subtle that it probably won't bother most tasters but it is incumbent upon me to point it out.
The 2016 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru includes 70% whole cluster, the highest of the domaine’s cuvées, in order to capture its freshness. That comes through on the nose: black fruit mixed with black truffle and hints of autumn leaves. The palate is medium-bodied with firm and slightly brittle tannin with a slightly short finish. Fine, but missing a little excitement despite the acidity. I would just like more..."charm"? (NM)
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