Slightly funky from the wild ferment but very succulent and racy. Crystalline purity at the super elegant finish, which shows great herbal and mineral complexity. Drink or hold.
Fruit and steel collide in this spine-tingling spätlese. It’s a tantalizing medium-sweet wine offering concentrated white-grapefruit and pineapple flavors, dusted by crushed slate and caramelized sugar. The finish is long and lean, marked by tangs of cool steel and acid. Delightful now but will improve well through 2030. (AI)
Supple, with a vibrant structure behind the nectarine, green tea and lemon curd notes. A touch of creaminess emerges midpalate as this shows a range of aromas and flavors. The terrific, complex finish invites you for another sip. Drink now through 2032.
The 2017 Herrenberg Spätlese AP #18 is a nicely understated example of the vintage, but it too seems just a bit easy-going structurally at the present time. The bouquet is youthful and still nicely reductive, eventually blossoming to show notes of pear, white cherry, bee pollen, a bit of mossiness, salty slate and a nice touch of wild yeasts in the upper register. On the palate the wine is medium-full, complex and transparent, with impeccable focus and length, gentle framing acids and a long, suave finish. If more cut and grip emerge here with further distance from the bottling, then this will be terrific. If not, then it will still be a very good bottle, but without the same exhilaration as is found in the Auction Kabinett from the Abtsberg. (Drink between 2020-2050) (
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