A moderately oaked nose is comprised by an exuberantly spicy array of plum, cassis, earth and evident sauvage nuances. The impressively rich and seductively textured broad-shouldered flavors coat the palate with sappy dry extract, all wrapped in a balanced, long and highly complex finish. I very much like the way this fans out on the strikingly persistent finish. In short, this is outstanding.
The 2017 Clos Rognet chez Méo is a step up in depth and grand cru structural conviction from the pretty Corton “Perrière”. The bouquet is deep and already shows off excellent earlycomplexity, delivering a constellation of red and black currants, dark berries, complex, clove-likespice tones, smoked meats, cedar and an exotic topnote of lavender. On the palate the wine isdeep, full-bodied, beautifully soil-driven and sappy at the core, with ripe, fine-grained tannins,excellent focus and grip and a very long, tangy and complex finish. Rognet can sometimes be abit of a brute out of the blocks and take quite a bit of time for its inherent elegance to start toshow, but this is emphatically not the case with this outstanding 2017 version. Great juice! 2028-2080. 94+
Clos Rognet is on the Ladoix side of the hill, which often tends to produce slightly more tannic wines. This has certainly got a rustic edge to it, but that gruffness comes with the territory. Textured and firm, this has the structure and acidity to handle the 80% new oak. Drinking Window 2025 - 2030. (TA)
The 2017 Corton Clos Rognet Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of cherries, cassis, blood orange, spices and smoked meats. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and tangy, with fine but firm structuring tannins, impressive tension at the core and a long, nicely defined finish. This was also a bit introverted after its recent racking but it shows plenty of promise. Longtime fans of Domaine Méo-Camuzet will be delighted by the 2017 vintage at this address, as the domaine has produced an attractive collection of charming, supple wines that are beautifully defined by site but which will also be unusually approachable out of the gates. While many of the wines had been racked not long before my tasting, they were still expressive, and I suspect they will prove even more satiny and gourmand in bottle. Méo began picking on September 6, finishing just over a week later. Like many others, he reports that the wines fleshed out considerably during élevage and is thinking of bottling them a little earlier than usual. (WK) 91-93+
The 2017 Corton Clos Rognet Grand Cru has a slightly more backward nose than the Corton-Perrières at the moment and requires more coaxing from the glass, eventually revealing pure black cherry, raspberry preserve and subtle minty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied and a tad more reduced than the Corton-Perrières, quite rounded in the mouth, with a savory, almost gamy finish. I am intrigued to see how this will show once in bottle. (NM)
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