This has a very flamboyant and complex nose already and there is much to offer with a full array of chardonnay fruit, from citrus to peach and into even more exotic, tropical notes. The palate has a super plush, fleshy and flamboyant feel. There’s concentration of flavor, density of texture and fluidity to the shape and depth in the finish. A classic Montrachet, from a plot on the Puligny side between DRC and Ramonet. Drink across the next 20 years.
From a parcel sandwiched between the holdings of Ramonet and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, the 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru wafts from the glass with notes of oatmeal, lemon curd, ripe yellow orchard fruit and praline, subtly framed by new wood. On the palate, the wine is satiny, deep and complete, with a classily reserved profile that's concealing impressive reserves of concentration and structure, underpinned by juicy acids. It's a terrific Montrachet that may match the 2014 rendition. Vintage 2017 is a decided success for Bouchard Père & Fils, yielding an impressively consistent range of charming, expressive reds and bright, incisive whites that hit really high notes with the domaine's two cuvées of Chevalier-Montrachet and the Montrachet itself. Frédéric Weber told me that the 2017 harvest went well, with a cold winter helping to limit disease pressure and a dry August resulting in some hydric stress. When harvest came, picking the optimal date for all of Bouchard's 142 parcels of domaine vineyards required careful attention, and Weber noted figgy, dehydrated berries towards the end, validating his decision to commence relatively early. During vinification of the red wines, he continued, the team did mainly pumpovers, looking for gentle extraction. The whites, as usual, went through alcoholic fermentation in tank before being racked to barrel for sur lie maturation. (WK)
(from a .89 ha parcel on the Puligny side). Like the Chevalier there is some residual SO2 present on the notably floral-suffused nose that primarily consists of various white orchard fruit, tangerine peel and spice. There is even more size, weight and richness to the big-bodied flavors that also possess an abundance of dry extract that imparts a lush mouth feel to the palate coating and highly persistent if notably compact finish that is no longer than that of the La Cabotte but it is slightly more complex. This is going to require extended patience if you wish to see it at its peak.
Bouchard Père's 0.88ha of Montrachet is on the Puligny-Montrachet side of the grand cru and is always served last in the négociant's historic cellars. It's a good way to end, showing a creamy, rich and textured palate of sweet vanilla oak with notes of beeswax and lemon butter, and vivacious supporting acidity. Drinking window 2021-2030. (TA)
Deep aromas of mirabelle, spices and iodiney minerality. The fattest and largest of these '17s, both more tactile and sweeter than the Cabotte. Much easier to taste today as well, owing to its ripe yellow fruit flavors. But this also shows more energy than the Cabotte and finishes with a serious tannic spine and the rocky minerality to support a slow evolution in bottle. While showy already, this should be long-lived in the context of its vintage. Bouchard harvested its Chevalier-Montrachet and Montrachet vineyards between September 6 and 8 in 2017.
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