Bouchard have some of the biggest holdings of Corton-Charlemagne, at 3.9ha, all of them east-facing and high on the slope. This is perfumed and intense, with citrus rind and tangerine notes, chalky freshness and old-vine concentration. The oak is assertive but well integrated. Drinking Window 2020 - 2027. (TA)
(from fruit picked on September 12 and 13): Aromas of lime, white flowers, spices and hazelnut. Powerful, thick, rich and deep; wonderfully silky and broad but with terrific spicy acidity giving it a light touch. This is extract-rich for a yield of nearly 45 hectoliters per hectare. Finishes tactile, dry and long, with an impression of tannic spine and repeating nutty nuances. (Stephen Tanzer writing for Vinous.com)
Super chalky with restrained notes of stones and minerals, as well as orange and clementine aromas and lightly spiced bread dough, in attractive mode. The palate has a smoothly layered and very approachable feel with a lot of plush, rich and ripe fruit, delivered in a channel of chalky freshness. Drink or hold.
Concentrated, with a solid structure keeping this sleek and long. Lemon, apple, vanilla and pastry spice notes ply the dense texture, buoyed by vivid acidity. Balanced, with a long aftertaste echoing the fruit and spice flavors, retaining a chalky feel. Best from 2021 through 2029.—B.S.
(from a huge 3.65 ha plot in Le Corton). A cool and admirably pure nose displays notes of green apple, floral, citrus and a hint of wood toast. There is excellent volume, power and punch to the well-detailed and overtly stony broad-shouldered flavors that coat the palate on the impressively long finish that also reflects a bitter lemon nuance. While this is a classically styled CC, it remains relatively refined and should drink reasonably well after only 5 years or so of bottle age.
The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru surpasses its showing from barrel, revealing an attractive bouquet of ripe orchard fruit, citrus oil, spring flowers and pastry cream. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, elegantly glossy and precise, with a fleshy core of fruit that's tempered by brisk acids, concluding with a delicately chalky finish. While this is a little shut down after its recent bottling, this is a charming, expressive Corton-Charlemagne in the making. Vintage 2017 is a decided success for Bouchard Père & Fils, yielding an impressively consistent range of charming, expressive reds and bright, incisive whites that hit really high notes with the domaine's two cuvées of Chevalier-Montrachet and the Montrachet itself. Frédéric Weber told me that the 2017 harvest went well, with a cold winter helping to limit disease pressure and a dry August resulting in some hydric stress. When harvest came, picking the optimal date for all of Bouchard's 142 parcels of domaine vineyards required careful attention, and Weber noted figgy, dehydrated berries towards the end, validating his decision to commence relatively early. During vinification of the red wines, he continued, the team did mainly pumpovers, looking for gentle extraction. The whites, as usual, went through alcoholic fermentation in tank before being racked to barrel for sur lie maturation. (WK)
The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has an impressive bouquet that actually outshines the Montrachet, featuring yellow fruit, minerals and hints of white flower. The palate is well balanced with good body and rounded texture, displaying notes of orange peel and quince, and perhaps just missing a little delineation toward the finish. Fine. (NM)
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