Still deep in colour, with elegant, pure scents more dominated now by refined spice, mushroom and violet than fruit. On the palate, the wine seemed high-cheek-boned and dramatic compared to the affably generous 2007. Acidity does the main structuring work here, but it is ripe, resonant, well-seasoned acidity and this willowy wine remains well-composed and scented to the finish. (AJ)
Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 1996 Clos de Tart Grand Cru - which was Sylvain Pitiot's debut vintage - has a surprisingly rich, licorice-tinged bouquet. Drink through 2025. (NM)
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