The notably ripe yet super-fresh nose is composed by notes of plum liqueur, black cherry and ample amounts of pungent earth. There is excellent minerality to the sleek, intense and delineated medium weight flavors that possess much better overall complexity on the dusty, serious and balanced finish that is youthfully austere.
The 2016 Gevrey Chambertin Village comes from ten parcels and includes 30% whole bunch fruit and, again, around 40% new oak. It has a fragrant and more feminine bouquet than the Morey-Saint-Denis, as you would expect, with touches of rose petal complementing the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, fresh in the mouth with a lot of finesse on the finish. This is another superb village cru from Drouhin-Laroze. They’ve done it! “What have they done, exactly," you rightfully ask. Well, Drouhin-Laroze has finally produced a clutch of wines commensurate with their stellar array of holdings. Without wishing any disrespect to Philippe Drouhin, since first encountering their wines in the late nineties, myself and other mavens felt that they were a bit “over-produced.” Maybe picked too late? Certainly they were often burdened with an excessive use of new oak that obfuscated terroir, and when you have half a dozen grand crus under your wing, that is a shame. (NM)
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