(production was half of normal in 2016; aged in 30% new oak and bottled at the beginning of April of this year): Pale yellow-green. High-pitched aromas of citrus peel, menthol, lavender and white pepper. Extremely tight without coming across as austere, conveying striking purity to its bracing flavors of grapefruit pith, lemon and crushed stone. Adamant minerality gives this very dense wine terrific inner-mouth tension and yet there's an element of leavening sweetness here as well, not to mention compelling floral perfume throughout. This wonderfully smooth, rich yet weightless wine really dances on the palate, spreading out on the unflagging back end to saturate every square millimeter of the mouth. Cellarmaster Emmanuel Hautus compared this wine to the 2009 in its combination of richness, early appeal and potential longevity. (ST)
The 2016 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is showing superbly from bottle, unwinding in the glass with a classy bouquet of crisp green apple, pears, almond paste, fresh pastry and Meyer lemon. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, concentrated and precise, with serious depth, tangy acidity, and chewy structuring dry extract while remaining elegantly textural. Intense and complete, it's an immensely promising wine which augers well for Bonneau du Martray's future. This was an impressive set of wines from Domaine Bonneau du Martray, where I tasted with new cellar master Emmanuel Hautus. The wines show increasing coherence and precision, and some subtle refinements in cellar technique, lead me to believe that they will age more dependably than has sadly been the case at this address in the last two decades. Impressive investment in the vineyards—above all, extensive replanting of the Domaine's Pinot Noir holdings—also bode well for the future. In the near future, once the new team has a few more vintages under their belt, I'll be reporting more thoroughly on developments here. Drink 2022-2045. (WK)
A pungent nose combines notes of wood and reduction. Otherwise there is both good density and punch to the intensely mineral-driven broad-shouldered flavors that possess sneaky good length. This beauty is notably firm but not really austere and while it should age well over the mid-term, it should also be accessible after as little as 5 years.
This Corton-Charlemagne was cropped at around 20hl/ha. It's a success in a challenging year, opening in the glass with notes of white peach, nutmeg and citrus zest. The wine is glossy, elegant and medium-full, with good balance, nicely saline minerality, and an impressive sense of reserve in this generally open-knit white Burgundy vintage. This is not the most concentrated or taut young Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne, but it’s showing very well. Drinking Window 2020-2033. (WK)
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