Even purer and perhaps more sophisticated than the Bockstein is the sweet 2013 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese ** with its cool, slate purity and springlike citrus and blossom aromas, which are delivered as lime chutney on the nose. This again is a kind of pure Armani perfume and the cool character of a true gentleman who turns out to be a notorious rake, elegant and balanced as it is. The texture is nobly concentrated and juicy, and there is no single botrytis berry in this stunning wine. Drink it now, but drink it slowly, or store it for a decade or two. (SR)
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