This superb 2.15ha monopole, located on white clay soils just behind the winery and high on the slopes above Volnay, has made one of the great wines of the vintage in 2017. It's powerful, structured and complex, with layers of red cherry, raspberry and pomegranate fruit, sinewy tannins and pools of concentration. A stylishly oaked wine that's long, mineral and satisfying. Drinking Window 2025-2035. (TA)
The 2017 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is the famous crown jewel monopole of the domaine, ostensibly the rear garden with its own spring. Initially it is showing some reduction on the nose, although it dissipates with aeration. It is certainly reticent at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip on the entry. It provides that arching structure that defines this vineyard and gives it its longevity, yet paradoxically the mouth sensation is supple and smooth, with just a touch of spice tingling on the finish. Noble, and aristocratic - just how a Clos des Ducs ought to be.(NM)
(a monopole that measures 2.15 ha). There is an overt spiciness to the even more restrained nose that blends notes of red cherry, plum, violet, lavender and a whiff of warm earth. The sleek, intense and chiseled middle weight flavors flash ample minerality before terminating in a youthfully austere and wonderfully persistent finish that, like the Caillerets, is impeccably well-balanced. This tautly muscular effort is also youthfully austere and very much built-to-age. In a word, lovely.
The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs is the most incipiently complex wine in the cellar this year, unfurling in the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, grilled squab, dark chocolate and spices, as well as a lifted top-note of rose petal. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with good concentration at the core, a fine-grained but elegantly firm chassis of tannin and a long, mineral finish. The 2017 portfolio is charming, perfumed and emphatically Volnaysien at the Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, and Guillaume d'Angerville and his team should be very proud of their achievement. The suppleness and charm of the vintage at its best has tempered the muscularity of which the Domaine's more structural wines—Champans, Taillepieds and Clos des Ducs—are capable in firmer, more tight-knit vintages, but these Volnays don't lack depth or concentration. The obvious analogy is with the Domaine's 2007s. Followers of d'Angerville will be familiar with the protocol here: destemmed grapes, classical macerations and élevage in barrels of which 20% are new, older barrels generally being retained for five vintages. While the wines aren't marked by new oak, they aren't quite as backward and slow to evolve as they were in the days of Guillaume d'Angerville's father, and that will be especially true of these 2017s, wines that will in many cases deliver a great deal of pleasure in the near- and medium-term. (WK)
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