This 1.6ha parcel is in the middle of the slope, two metres above the Clos des Angles on poor, stony soils over a limestone base. Crunchy, elegant and refined, it has lovely texture, raspberry sweetness and fine-boned tannins, finishing with a saline, mineral bite. (TA)
The 2017 Volnay Fremiet 1er Cru has an expressive bouquet with veins of blue fruit that strafe the vibrant raspberry and crushed strawberry. Here there is fine mineralité tucked just underneath. The palate is vibrant, almost effervescent on the entry with blood orange infusing the red fruit, great tension and quite pointed tannin, a Fremiet that is bursting with life. Superb. (NM)
(from a 1.57 ha parcel). A slightly more deeply pitched nose displays an evident spiciness to the plum, dark raspberry and violet-scented aromas. The highly energetic and intense medium weight flavors offer even more minerality on the well-detailed flavors that possess more depth and a bit more length as well on the firmer finish. This is very Frémiets in character and a wine that should amply reward extended keeping.
The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiets offers up aromas of plums, cassis, wood smoke, dark chocolate and rich soil tones, followed by a medium to full-bodied, chalk and structured palate that's firmer and more muscular than the supple, giving Clos des Angles. The soils here are thinner and the wine inherently less gourmand, but it will reward the patient with lovely purity and transparency. The 2017 portfolio is charming, perfumed and emphatically Volnaysien at the Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, and Guillaume d'Angerville and his team should be very proud of their achievement. The suppleness and charm of the vintage at its best has tempered the muscularity of which the Domaine's more structural wines—Champans, Taillepieds and Clos des Ducs—are capable in firmer, more tight-knit vintages, but these Volnays don't lack depth or concentration. The obvious analogy is with the Domaine's 2007s. Followers of d'Angerville will be familiar with the protocol here: destemmed grapes, classical macerations and élevage in barrels of which 20% are new, older barrels generally being retained for five vintages. While the wines aren't marked by new oak, they aren't quite as backward and slow to evolve as they were in the days of Guillaume d'Angerville's father, and that will be especially true of these 2017s, wines that will in many cases deliver a great deal of pleasure in the near- and medium-term. (WK)
Bright crimson. Really very intriguing with depth and subtlety. The nose is positively heady. Really fresh palate attack with sweet but precisely etched fruit. Really rather gorgeous drive here. (JR) 17.5/20 points
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