Assembled into a foudre when I tasted it, the Gauby 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Vieilles Vignes – relatively equally divided among Carignan, Grenache, and Syrah with a smaller amount of Mourvedre, and exposed to around 20% new wood – smells of thyme, rosemary, fennel, and tar, along with ripe black fruits. With a bitter edge to its almost severe palate concentration of cassis, blackberry, juniper berry, resinous herbs, licorice, and tar, this strikingly dense, palate-staining cuvee exhibits a juiciness of fresh fruits and exuberance, as well as a refinement of tannins, that distinguish all of the best recent Gauby wines, and that keep it from austerity. Nor – amid a virtual torrent of finishing fruit – is a diversity of impressions missing that, while hard-to-describe, can only be categorized as mineral. I would anticipate being rewarded by bottles of this for 12-15 years. (RP)
A blend of 25% Grenache, 35% Carignan, 30% Syrah, and the rest Mourvèdre, from very old vines (the Carignan comes from 125-year-old vines), the 2007 Domaine Gauby Côtes du Roussillon Villages Vieilles Vignes is aged for 24 months in mostly older wood. Showing a vibrant, semi-transparent red color as well as spectacular, perfumed aromas of vibrant kirsch and raspberry like red fruits that are intermixed with huge wild herbs, thyme, licorice, pine resin, and asphalt, this strikes a beautiful balance between amazing complexity and freshness, and intense, ripe fruit. Medium to full bodied on the palate, with a powerful, yet light texture, good freshness, and a clean, focused finished, this is approachable now, showing best with an hour or so of air. I have no doubt it will continue to drink well for over a decade.
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