François Chainier purchased this parcel in 1997 in the Clos de Nouys, where he now produces a classic Vouvray. His 2017 is tight and reduced at first, the flinty notes slowly yielding tart-apple flavors with a limestone-dust mineral cool. Stay with it over the course of several days and that fruit extends its savor, the scents evoking an abandoned apple orchard in the woods. Concentrated and cellar worthy, this needs five years to show its best with pan-roasted trout.
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