An intensely juicy version, with raspberry and plum flavors that show pepper and slate accents. Features grippy tannins on the finish, with crunchy minerality. (KM)
This grows in Uruguay’s coastal hills, where Alejandro Bulgheroni invested in planting more than 1,000 parcels of vines. Working with consulting oenologist Alberto Antonini, the team fermented this wine in cement vats, then aged it in stainless steel and oak uprights. It’s tannat in a bright, spicy, accessible style, with an underlying structure that’s slowly revealed with air. The dark, iron-like tannins gain power as it opens, lending the wine the weight for sautéed calf’s liver with onions.
The 2017 Tannat Reserva was aged for six to 12 months in untoasted and used French wood of varying sizes. It comes in at 14.5% alcohol. This, despite the alcohol level, feels like an elegant and lightweight Tannat (a grape that can produce some serious blockbusters), but it is very tasty, shows mid-palate finesse and finishes well. In its youth, this is quite the charmer, combining some appealing fruitiness with that graceful presentation and respectable structure. It could use another few months in bottle, but you can certainly drink it now. It's less clear how well it will age, but most will consume this in the first few years anyway. At the moment, you might like it better than the score suggests. (MS)
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