The 300-metre rows in the domaine's 4ha of Champans run from the top to the bottom of the slope, taking in both brown and red soils. The result is a very complete, self-assured expression of the premier cru, showing the focus and delicacy of a classic Volnay. Silly, sweet and shimmering on the palate, it has very good depth and the concentration to age Drinking Window 2025 - 2032. (TA)
(from a huge 3.98 ha parcel). Once again there is a highly appealing freshness to the essence of red cherry, raspberry and floral elements, the latter of which is reflected by the sleek and relatively refined medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent punch on the beautifully persistent though markedly structured finish. This isn’t as refined as the Caillerets but there is slightly better mid-palate density.
The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans was showing especially well, bursting with expressive aromas of rose petal, ripe wild berries, blood orange rind and dark chocolate. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, rich and textural, with a layered core of concentrated fruit, fine structuring tannins and a long finish. The suppleness of the vintage has tempered Champans' tendency to structural muscularity but not its fleshy fruit, making for a delightful gourmand wine. The 2017 portfolio is charming, perfumed and emphatically Volnaysien at the Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, and Guillaume d'Angerville and his team should be very proud of their achievement. The suppleness and charm of the vintage at its best has tempered the muscularity of which the Domaine's more structural wines—Champans, Taillepieds and Clos des Ducs—are capable in firmer, more tight-knit vintages, but these Volnays don't lack depth or concentration. The obvious analogy is with the Domaine's 2007s. Followers of d'Angerville will be familiar with the protocol here: destemmed grapes, classical macerations and élevage in barrels of which 20% are new, older barrels generally being retained for five vintages. While the wines aren't marked by new oak, they aren't quite as backward and slow to evolve as they were in the days of Guillaume d'Angerville's father, and that will be especially true of these 2017s, wines that will in many cases deliver a great deal of pleasure in the near- and medium-term.(WK)
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