Bruno Clair owns 1ha of Clos de Bèze, which is quite a lot given how extensive Pierre Damoy's holdings are in the grand cru. This is a comparatively subtle, gentle wine rather than a late-picked blockbuster, with attractive 40% new wood, some chalky zip and nuanced red fruit sweetness. (TA)
The 2017 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet of broody black fruit (like the Clos Saint-Jacques) and traces of the sea – kelp and estuary mud flats – loitering in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin. This is very well balanced, displaying impressive substance, sea-salt-lacquered black fruit and a tangy, very mineral-driven finish that fans out beautifully. Superb. (NM)
An overtly floral, more elegant and airier nose displays a striking array of spice elements on the red and dark currant, herbal tea, earth and lavender scents. Here too the mouthfeel of the larger-scaled flavors is quite sophisticated while displaying plenty of punch on the youthfully austere finale that also flashes a touch of bitter fruit pit character. Lovely stuff.
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